Driving through Nairobi is a sobering experience for those of us fortunate enough to spend our time in the splendor of the western world.  The poverty, the dismal conditions for those who [are fortunate enough to] live in the projects, the battered vehicles, and the overwhelming decay of public structures such as bridges and roads is extremely hard to look at – and then you realize that Nairobi is one of Africa’s most industrialized cities and that conditions must be even worse elsewhere.  You wont find any photos of Nairobi here – my guides recommended to me that most places it is not advisable to take pictures and many other places it is forbidden.  Police officers, security cameras, electrified fences, armed security personnel, and dogs are all the reality of life in Nairobi and I am told that not only am I not to walk anywhere alone, but most areas even the most seasoned residents wouldn’t either.

There is something interesting happening in Nairobi though.  This city knows that it is in a rough state and that life is not likely to improve without major changes – however, this city wants to change.  Many cities feature government sponsored “feel-good” quotes and ideas on public structures but here, more than anywhere I have been, the people of this city emblazon the values they hope become the norm.  Vehicles have spray-painted messages like “be the change you wish to see in the world” (Gandhi) adorning their rear windows and buildings have sayings like “help your neighbors so they will no longer be neighbors, instead friends” painted on their walls.  It is obvious from both the messages and talking to as many people as I can that these are good people who don’t want to live in current Nairobi, they want to live in a cleaner, safer, and friendlier Nairobi.

Given the difficult conditions that most of Nairobi lives in, it’s hard to believe that the resources exist to manage and maintain the amazing Nairobi National Park.  Even more amazing than that is how it is even possible for a 120 square kilometre park filled with the wildest of animals to exist a mere 7 kilometres from the city of Nairobi.  One final note on lions: many people tend to feel that they have been robbed of the complete experience of the park if they leave without seeing a lion.  However, it is estimated that only 40 lions live within the entire park, it goes without saying that mathematically speaking it is unlikely to see one.  We were incredibly fortunate that a large lion not only graced us with his presence but had the audacity to walk right up to the truck and say hello.